Macomb County, Michigan Rat Control Services
Rodent entry elimination: We see many attempts by handymen, pest control companies, and Macomb County, Michigan rodent extraction companies that do not include the removal of any roofing material. Often the prevention includes the emptying of a can of foam into the void. Without the removal of roofing material, there is no assurance that rodent entry will be eliminated. When we encounter these substandard attempts, we must first remove the previous application. When this includes foam, the extraction of the foam takes longer than the application of our wire prevention product.
Rodent elimination by those who are not insured exposes you, the Macomb County, Michigan homeowner, to unnecessary liabilities. It is in your best interest to request proof of insurance for worker’s compensation and public liability before work begins on your roof. It’s doubtful that you will find these companies or individuals carry such insurance. Those who do not often work in this environment typically cannot afford expensive roofing insurance.
Citrus trees, having very low hanging skirts, are more prone to damage because they provide rats with protection.
Hantavirus pulmonary syndrome is transferred via inhalation of rodent urine, droppings or saliva.
Rats may carry viruses such as Hantavirus and salmonella, and although they can also be a carrier of bubonic plague, that disease is not indigenous in the USA.
Roof rats prefer to nest in locations off of the ground and rarely dig burrows for living quarters if off-the-ground sites exist.
Some type of clean food can be used to entice the rats to the boxes, or the tracking powders can be used in conjunction with an anticoagulant bait, with both placed in the same station.
They also often chew on inedible materials such as books, soap, and cans.
Traps may be nailed to beams or studs and secured to pipes with wires.
The Norway rat is also called brown rat, house rat, sewer rat, and wharf rat.
Roof rats range along the lower half of the East Coast and throughout the Gulf States upward into Arkansas.
Roof rats have a strong tendency to avoid new objects in their environment and this neophobia can influence control efforts, for it may take several days before they will approach a bait station or trap.
Presently, only one such modified trap is commercially available.
As their name suggests, roof rats may be found in elevated areas such as trees, rafters, attics and roofs.
Rats rely more on their keen senses of smell, taste, touch, and hearing than on vision.
Such caches may be found in a dismantled wood pile, attic, or behind boxes in a garage.
Nests and Burrows - check behind shelves, boxes, behind the fridge, anywhere that a rat might like to use as a hiding space.
They need not be baited.
In urban settings, cats and owls prey on roof rats but have little if any effect on well-established populations.
In most of our urban areas, Norway rats may be seen scurrying around after dark looking for food in garbage cans and other places where human refuse is found.
You will never solve a rat problem until you find all of these openings, and seal them shut with steel, which rats are unable to chew through.
Usually the peaks in breeding occur in the spring and fall.
There are two basic methods of rat population reduction:
Unfortunately, the rat’s great adaptability to varying environmental conditions can sometimes make this information elusive.
These kill traps are often baited with whole nuts and are most useful in trapping rats in trees.
If rats are seen during the day that usually means a very large rodent population is nearby.
They also exist all along the Pacific Coast and are found on the Hawaiian Islands (Fig.
This is a great supplementary treatment to trapping when you are dealing with larger rodent populations, or for outdoor populations.
Dense shrubbery, vine-covered trees and fences, and vine ground cover make ideal harborage for roof rats.
They also consume seeds, nuts, berries, and insects.
Many rats may cache or hoard considerable amounts of solid food, which they eat later.
I highly recommend snap traps, not live cage traps, certainly not glue boards, and most definitely not poison! Never poison rats, it doesn't solve the problem and it just creates more problems.